Seoul: Day 1
We couldn’t have asked for shittier weather, the clouds gathering overhead as our bus pulled into the terminal. Initially, we hadn’t noticed the disappearing sun as we were still in shock after seeing a Walmart. We hadn’t slept too much the night before, and were doped up on caffeine, but if I was going to hallucinate I’d hope it to be more imaginative than a Walmart. Because while I respect bargain-shopping, I cannot respect an institution that will sell guns, but allows its pharmacists to refuse birth control prescriptions (both presumably based on religious beliefs). Anyway, that’s a tangent for another time.
Meanwhile, back in Seoul . . . a2 had rediscovered that some subways still have more than one track, and navigated to our first stop. Our hotel was pretty disappointing on first glance, not that hotels in Korea are prized for appearance. You’ll be consistently disappointed if looking for a shiny, welcoming exterior. Generally, if we don’t see mold on the ceilings, and lobbies lack that special smell that comes from an attendant not showering for a few days, it's a solid bet. For the price it was tolerable.
We had limited sunshine, and one thing on our agenda. Well, two things if you count the rumble in our bellies. Off we went onto the sidewalks of Seoul in search of grub. One thing that you never have to search for in the city of Gwangju is a restaurant. The state of Jeollanamdo, in fact, is known for its food and love of. We often joke that no one here has heard of a business plan (ahem, nerdy joke), because the same restaurants open next to one another, sometimes in stretches of 4 or more. If you want samgyopsal, one block will have at least three options. We’ve been known to stand out front to “eenie-meenie-minie-moe”. Not kidding.
In Seoul we hadn’t seen a kimbap house for blocks, and were beginning to get nervous. In a city of how many million? you’d think there’d be one every 5 feet. We finally found a nice little Guk-Su place, and filled our bellies with fish, kimchi, and noodles. Now for some culture.
A few blocks walk more and a wall enclosing some of the largest trees we’ve seen in Korea loomed before us. This must be the place, Changgyeong-gung (“Palace of Bright Rejoicing”). Built in 1104 during the Goryeo Dynasty, Changgyeong-gung was a summer palace. That’s right, screw your summer home on the cape! Korean Kings, specifically Sukjong, knew how to live. The more unique attributes of the summer palace include Ockcheon-gyo (“Jade Stream Bridge”), which is a stone bridge built in 1483. It’s twin-supports and beast carvings are interesting enough, but it’s also the oldest bridge of this type in the city. The palace is also aligned east-west which is the orientation of the Goryeo Dynasty, while all other palaces in Seoul favor the Joseon orientation of north-south. Too much info???
a2 made the rounds to see the one of the thrones used by the last King of Korea, and to enjoy the vast (and I do mean vast) gardens enclosed within the walls. Peaceful by today’s standards, it was undoubtedly a paradise during the height of its use. A wonderful escape from the haste of modern Korea, we were also treated to traditional performances including court dances and folk drumming/dancing. It was a great afternoon, and we succeeded in staving off the rain for the time being.
We capped off our first day in Seoul with meal of hummus, falafel, tabbouleh, and a bottle of wine. Oh the things we’d taken for granted. Hummus never tasted so good! Afterwards we ventured into a bar named “Woodstock” which wore a pretty convincing 60’s face, and entertained with live musicians doing their best blues impressions. After few cocktails, we made our way back to the hotel just as the rain began to moisten the pavement.
Meanwhile, back in Seoul . . . a2 had rediscovered that some subways still have more than one track, and navigated to our first stop. Our hotel was pretty disappointing on first glance, not that hotels in Korea are prized for appearance. You’ll be consistently disappointed if looking for a shiny, welcoming exterior. Generally, if we don’t see mold on the ceilings, and lobbies lack that special smell that comes from an attendant not showering for a few days, it's a solid bet. For the price it was tolerable.
We had limited sunshine, and one thing on our agenda. Well, two things if you count the rumble in our bellies. Off we went onto the sidewalks of Seoul in search of grub. One thing that you never have to search for in the city of Gwangju is a restaurant. The state of Jeollanamdo, in fact, is known for its food and love of. We often joke that no one here has heard of a business plan (ahem, nerdy joke), because the same restaurants open next to one another, sometimes in stretches of 4 or more. If you want samgyopsal, one block will have at least three options. We’ve been known to stand out front to “eenie-meenie-minie-moe”. Not kidding.
In Seoul we hadn’t seen a kimbap house for blocks, and were beginning to get nervous. In a city of how many million? you’d think there’d be one every 5 feet. We finally found a nice little Guk-Su place, and filled our bellies with fish, kimchi, and noodles. Now for some culture.
hi!
palace gate
Ockcheon-gyo
A few blocks walk more and a wall enclosing some of the largest trees we’ve seen in Korea loomed before us. This must be the place, Changgyeong-gung (“Palace of Bright Rejoicing”). Built in 1104 during the Goryeo Dynasty, Changgyeong-gung was a summer palace. That’s right, screw your summer home on the cape! Korean Kings, specifically Sukjong, knew how to live. The more unique attributes of the summer palace include Ockcheon-gyo (“Jade Stream Bridge”), which is a stone bridge built in 1483. It’s twin-supports and beast carvings are interesting enough, but it’s also the oldest bridge of this type in the city. The palace is also aligned east-west which is the orientation of the Goryeo Dynasty, while all other palaces in Seoul favor the Joseon orientation of north-south. Too much info???
a2 made the rounds to see the one of the thrones used by the last King of Korea, and to enjoy the vast (and I do mean vast) gardens enclosed within the walls. Peaceful by today’s standards, it was undoubtedly a paradise during the height of its use. A wonderful escape from the haste of modern Korea, we were also treated to traditional performances including court dances and folk drumming/dancing. It was a great afternoon, and we succeeded in staving off the rain for the time being.
We capped off our first day in Seoul with meal of hummus, falafel, tabbouleh, and a bottle of wine. Oh the things we’d taken for granted. Hummus never tasted so good! Afterwards we ventured into a bar named “Woodstock” which wore a pretty convincing 60’s face, and entertained with live musicians doing their best blues impressions. After few cocktails, we made our way back to the hotel just as the rain began to moisten the pavement.
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