8 Seasons in the Land of the Morning Calm

I'm pretty sure that "you can't always get what you want . . ." , but it's raining, so I'm feeling good right now. P.P.S. Please still send falafel.

Despite a solid week of martial arts training, an adventurous weekend out with new people, and serving Alex a handy ass-whooping playing cards, I’m feeling a bit low this week. Homesick? Well, I do miss the diversity of people and FOOD , and I do miss my families, but I haven’t the desire to leave Korea. Is it homesickness if the want to return home is absent?  All I want is garlic bread that doesn’t have sugar on it, and maybe one of these days I’ll break down and buy butter or tomatoes ( $$$ ).  Insomnia?   I have been suffering a bit from lack of sleep, which I attribute to the population density (like sardines) and building materials (concrete) . Every sound is amplified and reverberates at lightening speed. Koreans are late, late, late night people.  There are always lights flicking on and off, and drunk girls in high heels plodding up the stairs with yapping dogs at their feet.  Then again, haven’t I always had trouble sleeping?...

Just your typical Saturday night of soju, gin rummy, and dried squid tasties. Winner takes all - all the soju.   not a burrito   The winner and still champion

If you’re looking for an alternative to your usual grilling routine, I recommend a nice heaping plate of Bulgogi. It’s a delicious meal, and is one of the primary ways meat is consumed here. Bulgogi restaurants are like the Starbucks of Korea, one on every corner. By the way, there are Starbucks in Korea. Necessary equipment: a grill of any kind (I guess, you could cook it in a skillet, but it just wouldn’t taste the same.) Bulgogi servings: 6 calories: ? Ingredients: 1.25 lbs sirloin or rib steak 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons sesame oil 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 4 scallions, white part only, cut in 2-inch long julienne strips 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon Korean red pepper powder 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon sesame seeds 10 large lettuce leaves 3 cloves garlic, sliced thin Cook:     Cut steaks into thin slices, 3 inches long and 2 inches wide (easier if the steak is half frozen). Mix steak...

On the stove: a large skillet or wok Ingredients you’ll search for: doenjang (soy bean paste), gochujang (fermented hot pepper paste), small ginger root and tilefish (can substitute whitefish) What you’re doing: making 2 tasty side dishes (banchan) and one incredible soup to serve with rice Fried Green Peppers servings: 2-4 calories: 77 Ingredients: 1.5 teaspoons sesame oil 2 green bell peppers, cut into thin strips 1 white onion, cut into long, thin strips 1/4 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root 1.5 teaspoons soy sauce Cook:     In your wok/skillet heat oil over high heat.  Add green pepper strips, onion strips, and ginger.  Stir-fry for 2 minutes.  Add soy sauce and stir-fry 1 minute more.  Serve hot or cold sprinkled with sesame seeds (opt...

Nestled into a modest studio three stories from the streets of Chipyeong-dong, we cautiously tapped the frosted-glass doors of Master Lee’s dojang for Haedong Kumdo. Both of us admittedly nervous, but with a desire to resume training that outweighed all else, entered the school.   Master Lee rose from his small, over-furnitured office with a curious look that snapped into a smile. He nodded . . . that means we should speak. What do we say?  Would he understand us? Will we offend with our directness, a characteristic "flaw" of Americans? We said nothing, following our gut instinct to bow instead. Not that our speaking would’ve upset him in any way, but bowing definitely makes a favorable impression especially on a Master.   After a slow, hobbled discussion in broken English/Korean of our want to train, Master Lee agreed to take us on. He then gave us the grand tour of his school. The main room’s green floors and fluorescent lights are lined on one side by...

Juengshim-sa resides on Gwangju's largest mountain, Mudeungsan.  It's a beautiful temple, and was a welcome break from the rush of city life.  A little Buddha does a soul good. Walking up to Jeungshimsa.   Faded pain on doors. Inside Obeak-Jeon. Trail markers.    Dragons peaking out from roofline.